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THEY KNEW THE TSUNAMI WAS COMING |
Timing wise it seemed odd two weeks after the South Asian devastation,
cheaptickets.com's tropical get-a-way advertisement was on the same page
as Merriam Webster's online dictionary definition for "tsunami." With one
hundred and fifty thousand dead from "an unusually high sea wave that
sometimes follows an earthquake," the death toll from the deep continues
to mount. The ad featured a sling back chair reflected in ocean waters at
sunset on a Shangri-la beach.
The clerk at Route 110's Washington Mutual looked at me from across her
freestanding pod, bank management's idea of making clerks customer
friendly. "Looks like California stands to gain a 6th season, Tsunami,"
she said. The other five are earthquake, mudslide, riots, heat wave, rain
and fire. She asked, referencing the $1 billion dollars in aid raised for
South Asia, if I knew the exchange rate for bahts to dollars. "January
7th, one US dollar was worth 39.155 Thai bahts." "The average Thai worker
makes less than $2 a day," she said, "For every action, you know, there is
a reaction. A Tsunami in Asia has a good chance of bouncing back at
Beverly Hills." She wondered aloud who will donate dollars to California's
possible affected out-of-work actors making ends meet waiting tables for
$5.75 an hour minimum, plus tips? Sandra Bullock? Spielberg?" Or maybe,
the usual suspect, America's government.
The clerk was unaware science, expensive to support being focused on
building newer and better equipment advancing technology, is far from
being exacting. She did not know scientists have yet to figure out a ratio
between quake magnitude and wave size. Nor did she know Northern
California Humboldt University geologist Lori Dengler said "A magnitude
6.5 or 7 earthquake could produce a landslide that will knock out five
states. one of the most crippling events the US will ever see." Or that, a
Tsunami hit America, 1964. 21' waves from a 9.3 earthquake striking
Alaska, hit Crescent City, California, killing 120, damaging ports in Los
Angeles. 1997's Northridge's earthquake, January 17, registered almost 9
on the Richter scale, I was told high atop Mammoth Mountain in Northern
California months later. A scientist on vacation said the reported number
was smaller because powers that be didn't want to scare the people into
thinking "the big one" people talk about could actually become a reality.
The Tsunami Warning Center near Hawaii's Pearl Harbor correctly predicted
the 9.5 quake in Chile. The Center, over 56 years old, got this Tsunami
wrong. Human error, in judgment. Seven hours before it hit, somewhere
around Hawaii lunchtime, the Center's director knew the Tsunami was
coming. One scientist, noticing a spike on the Coco Islands seismometer,
issued a routine notice of quake that occurred outside the Pacific. He
wrote "No destructive Tsunami threat exists based on historical earthquake
and Tsunami damage." Incredible amounts of money sunk into state of the
art equipment monitored by leading experts in the field, the best the
Center's director, Charles McCreery, could offer was, "We didn't realize
the scale of the thing." Asked why the Center didn't call any of the
hotels on the beaches to warn them of imminent danger, McCreery, without
stating if he owned for easy reference Yellow Pages of tourist
destinations likely to be affected by natural forces, said a lot of things
should have been done. Nor did he state if the scientists ate lunch in or
out, that day.
It was too late by the time the second notice warning of Tsunami activity
was sent out. The huge mass of water surged to the surface, spreading
outward sending waves to Mauritius and Madagascar, the coast of Africa,
four or five hours after the quake erupted under Alaska's ocean floor, 7pm
Hawaii time. The Tsunami crossed the Bay of Bengal to India in less than
two hours. The monster quake's gash, hundreds of miles along the Indian
Ocean floor, sent waves racing 500 miles an hour with the energy of a
hydrogen bomb, faster than it takes an jetliner to cross the ocean.
Scientific Tsunami warning systems are simple. Undersea wave detectors
register changes in water pressure. Data is passed on to buoys then to
satellites. Scientists confirm the Tsunami then warn affected nations by
notifying the public through broadcast alerts or sirens. The chain of
command works until scientists get the prediction wrong. Then it usually
becomes the equipments fault, for being outdated, too few staff, rarely
referenced is the old fashioned adage, "the information being only as good
as the person who entered it." Tsunami predicting seems less of an
exacting science, than it being more like a golfer reading a green for
their short game where a single blade of grass alters the course of their
ball heading to the hole.
Indonesia's Bureau of Meteorology and Geophysics, Dr. Prih Harjad,
received notice the quake hit an island 1200 miles east of the epicenter,
"the old fashioned way." His nephew telephoned him Sumatra was gone.
Harjad blames his government. They decided against installing a Tsunami
warning system because Japan would not give Indonesians $2 million they
requested to set up monitors in the Indian Ocean, citing their denial was
predicated on the area being less vulnerable to undersea earthquakes that
set off Tsunamis. Harjad, it seems, was not asked nor did he volunteer if
he owned a cat, a dog or a bird.
There are no "Tsunami Country" caveats in cheaptickets.com's
advertisements just a plethora of sensuous visuals inducing "take-me-away"
escapes. No red rubber stamped words on tickets advising paradise can be
perilous. No list of what to do in the event natural, or other, disasters
hit, ie. location of nearest hospital, native language for "doctor," "need
water" or "help me please" translations in the native tongue of the
locale. cheaptickets.com website policy does state, "We may change any or
all content on the Site, including, but not limited to, products,
programs, and/or services described on or offered through the Site,
without notice and without liability."
Within days of the disaster, tourists on the beaches ghoulishly taking "we
were here" photos to send home. Cancellations were out of the question for
trips booked and pre-paid for. Travellers could have bought travel
protection from "Travel Guard" for "Trip Cancellation & Interruption, Up
to total cost of Travel; Travel Delay, Actual costs up to $500; Medical
Expense Expenses up to $10,000; Emergency Medical Transportation Expenses
up to $20,000." The value of a life or dismemberment? $25,000, max.
cheaptickets.com is not responsible for "any disruption of travel-related
products and/or services resulting from" amongst other things "climactic
aberrations" and/or "events of force majeure ie. Those beyond our
reasonable control." Such as Tsunamis.
The lady sitting next to me in Huntington Station NY receiving a pedicure
from an Asian manicurist noted South Asian crystalline sandy beaches were
promoting ardor for all ages in the travel magazine she was reading. We
looked carefully together. No graphic little men on signs pictured with
Hokusai stylized waves. It was only after the horror, news magazines
showed the warning signs posted on Thai beaches, alongside the words, only
in English, "Tsunami Hazard zone, in case of earthquake head for high
ground or inland." Only. 61 people in Hilo failed to heed warnings to head
towards higher ground. They drowned.
More often tourists trust travel agents they paid for the travel into
potential Twilight Zones. Human nature is not to believe strangers doling
free advice like shrieks of "run for your life." California animal
behaviorist, Dr. Larry Lachman says humans and fellow mammal share an
inherited hard and soft wired survival response. It seems animals use
theirs better. Animals survived the Tsunami because they sensed barometric
changes in the atmosphere prior to the storm. Mounting evidence is the
humanity's tragedy of loss of basic instincts due to greater reliance on
emerging technologies eclipsing the tragic reality responsible individuals
failed to act. People perished because they were ill prepared to survive
when electricity failed their cell phones, lap tops, Palm Pilots,
Blackberries, television, radio and up-to-the-minute news posted on the
inaccessible Internet. Clerks at Beverly Hills' Canon Drive Rite Aid,
during a blackout, did not know how to calculate sales manually without
electronic cash registers tabulating transactions for them. Westwood's
police department, 9-11, struggled with inter-enforcement communications
when, in wake of the attack, were ordered off-radio.
A tourist from the Hauge, Arlette Stuip, was vacationing at Khao Lak,
Thailand. Stuip confirmed tourists were told the Tsunami was coming. Tom
told her. Arlette admits she almost died because she did not want to
listen to Tom. Stuip's hearing is just fine, it seems. Just selective. Tom
is her husband. She preferred enjoying the Thai Curry her waiter was
bringing her, not wanting "to hurt his feelings." Animals heightened
hearing is theoretically one of their main survival detection tools,
"infrasonic" used to describe sound frequencies below human hearing range
while "ultrasonic" comprises sound frequencies above human range. Stuip
does not know if she cost the waiter his life.
Stuip wrote Thai people stared watching the seawater receding rapidly.
Tourists walked out, looking for shells, tossing balls and taking photos.
Knowing another wave was coming, Thai heroes gave their lives, running
into danger, dragging back bathing suited tourists from the emerging dry
seabed. Stuip wrote, prelude to the tidal wave erupting the sea off the
coast, the ground rumbled. The 9.0 seismic blast ignited the most powerful
earthquake in 40 years. "Hell broke loose." 300 metres out, high water
wall came crashing, over the reef. Then, the second wave came.
Choo, his eyes red from crying, was one of many Thai, despite being
victims themselves, who interrupted searching for their families to
provide aid to tourists. A Dutch snorkler described the wave following the
speedboat he was in for twenty minutes. Their captain dropped passengers
off, turning round to find his brother. The second wave "swallowed" him.
The numbers of dead continue to climb. People that live and work alone may
remain unreported for a while, until they are missed. If ever. All 2050 of
the Jarawa tribe survived. One tribesman, Ashu said in his native tongue,
"We don't like people from outside." They escaped inland India's isolated
island, living off coconuts in the Balughat forest. Indonesian government
officials speculate Jarawa's ancient knowledge of wind, sea and birds
saved them.
CNN reported a village in Thailand survived the Tsunami intact. Villagers
fled before the wave hit, forewarned by their domesticated birds. Dr. Carl
Darby an avian expert with The Center For Specialized Veterinary Care in
Westbury said birds are better equipped to deal with danger than mankind
because they have five senses to detect natural disasters. "Birds," Darby
explained, "monitor weather changes to avoid flying in potentially unsafe
conditions.
One native islander recalled hearing a purr sound he says he never heard
before. The waters swept him up because he went back to working on his
fishing nets. He did not know that sound was a warning to run for his
life. When the waves pulled back, 21 year old school teacher, Marsue
McGinnis, walked her students out onto the exposed reef of sand and coral.
She was ill prepared for surviving the Tsunami. Her dependency on modern
technology for information robbed this teacher of her basic instincts to
protect. To teach and to pass on survival information to. No one taught
her receding waters exposing sand beds was an advance signal a tidal wave
was about to hit. McGinnis lives with the recurring nightmare of watching
helplessly as students she failed were swept away to their deaths. Marsue
did not understand she was witnessing nature's lesson as dogs fled to save
their lives.
Seismic sound and pressure waves are released during an earthquake.
Primary and secondary waves move through solid rock and liquid layers of
the earth, pushing and pulling rock they move through, like sound waves
push and pull air. Naturalist Jack Hanna believes animals work in concert,
fish sense the earthquake, warn the birds who warn land animals. Animals
hear primary waves and alarm calls from other animals from far distances,
humans cannot.
Sensing the earthquake, they flee to safe hiding on higher ground to avoid
danger and dying. Hanna, wanting animal behavior monitored so people can
be warned of future natural disasters, did not mention if animals read the
Tsunami signs humans ignored.
South Asia's loss should be our gain. The images of spouses crying because
they cannot distinguish the love of their life from all the other bloated
distorted bodies in makeshift morgues with coffins stacked 8 high aught to
haunt us into taking pre-cautionary action. Traveling today's world,
without old fashioned know-how of wind, waters and wildlife, sets the
stage for more tragedy, natural and otherwise. The first real step to
making a difference in saving lives before disaster hits might be
diverting some of the $39,155 billion bahts back to homeshores for
disaster preparedness in North America.
Few New Yorkers talk, over lattes at Starbucks up on Lexington and 45th,
about preparedness for the earthquake fault running through Midtown
Manhattan. Colleges teaching Islamic culture solidarity or supporting
political unrest against the Occupation, do not teach students how they
will cope, or perish, when the Tsunami expected to wipe out the whole East
Coast, hits. Hollywood has long been releasing "Metropolis' being washed
out to sea films." A Tinsel Town favorite "the big one" theme in which Los
Angeles breaks off and fall into the ocean could become a primer for what
to do, when and how. Maybe the travel industry will require hoteliers to
teach, and travelers to take, a half hour preparedness course on
"Surviving Paradise When Disaster Hits." And maybe, legislators will
require travel related industry marketers, like cheaptickets.com, to post
in bold print, natural hazard warnings advising tourists traveling may be
injurious and/or fatal to their health.
Long before science proved Jewish and Arab restrictions against pork and
shell fish cogent, having discovered pigs produce trichinoses and shell
fish grub metals and other poisons of lake bottoms, a time before adults
could remember the sailor's ditty taught in class, "red sky at morning,
sailor take warning." People knew to navigate themselves by the stars.
Water could be found with reeds in sand instead of on Kabbalah Center
shelves selling for a princely ransom and a horse was not only a cowboy's
ride but also his best chance of survival as it became both food and
interpretive clothing. Until short courses on locating moss on the north
side of a tree or watching the sun rise to note which directions are east
and west, are taught for surviving disasters in jungles, urban and
otherwise, a good first step might be assuring highly paid scientists do
not fall asleep, ever again, at the proverbial Tsunami wheel, of
misfortune. Thought might be to buy them a dog or two, and hope they know
more about animals than the TV production company dog being told to "sit
Ubu sit."
BIO: Carrie Devorah, an award winning investigative photojournalist based
in Washington DC specializes in paper trails, finding things and people
who are lost.
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